If you have ever heard of adding a flood coat to your resin piece but didn’t know how, you are in the right place. In this article I am going to show you exactly how I add a flood coat to my resin projects.
First things first, why would I do that? My epoxy resin project is already beautiful after having combined my mica powder additives to the resin. This may be true. The reason for adding a flood coat is to encapsulate the resin additives. You wouldn’t really want to be eating off of spray paint (or whatever you used for the additive in your resin) You will also add durability to the surface of your piece.
You can resin over many different surfaces. Including but not limited to formica countertops, wood tables, sinks (yup, even sinks), desk tops, night stands, end tables, Garage floors, and any room in the house floors. You can even resin over something that previously had resin applied to it. You may do this simply to bring back the beautiful glass like shine in a piece. You may re-resin something to change the look of the piece. There is really no limit to how many times you can add resin to something.
Timing is everything
One thing that is sort of nice about adding the flood coat is you don’t really have to wait until the first layer of resin is cured completely to do it. You only need to wait 3-5 hours after applying the first coat of resin before you can apply your flood coat. While the piece may still be tacky, the new layer will adhere nicely to the tackly layer of resin.
Preparing the surface
Always use a respirator or N95 mask when sanding resin as the resin dust is toxic!
The first thing to do when applying a flood coat to your resin project is sand the surface with 100-220 grit sandpaper. Scuffing up the surface will allow the new resin layer to adhere properly.
This is also a great time to remove a fly that may have decided to land on your resin while you weren’t looking. Yes, this happened to me with this project. This flood coat is going on one of the glass table tops I put resin on in a recent post “How to resin a glass table top“. When I got up in the morning and went to check on my project, I found the fly in it.
The struggle was real
Luckily this is an easy fix. To remove the fly I just sanded that area and added another layer of resin.
As mentioned earlier, you don’t need to wait until the first layer of resin is completely cured before adding the flood coat. You also do not need to sand in between layers if you do add the flood coat between that 3-5 hour mark. The resin will still be somewhat tacky at that time, this is what will allow the flood coat to adhere properly to that first layer of resin.
Once the surface is sanded use some isopropyl alcohol to wipe all of the dust off. You can pour or spritz some of the alcohol on and just wipe it off with a lint free cloth. Then allow to dry. Tape the edges on the underside of the piece for easy cleanup once the resin has cured completely.
Prepare the resin. I won’t go too in depth on the mixing process since I have already discussed that in my post “Let’s Talk Resin“. Feel free to refer to that post if you have questions. I will again be using ProMarine Epoxy Resin for the flood coat. I use this brand of resin for larger projects. Generally a good rule of thumb is to use 3 oz. of resin per square foot.
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Once the resin is mixed I pour it over the piece and spread it around with a trowel. The trowel is used to get a nice even layer and cure. Allow some of the resin to flow over the piece for a nice smooth edge.
Drips on underside
There is not really a way to avoid having drips on the underside of your piece. Initially I just use my gloved finger and run it along the underside to remove the drips. Once it has cured for an hour or so I go to using a very sophisticated tool, the toothpick.
I recently discovered using a toothpick. I like how it doesn’t pull off any of the resin on the side of the piece when I wipe the drips away. Using my gloved finger or a craft stick does that to some degree. It’s not as much of a problem with the flood coat, but when you are doing that first layer and you have color additive, you may not want the colors mixed on the sides.
Once the resin is all applied evening it’s time to apply some heat. The heat is to pop any bubbles. You can use a heat gun or a torch to remove bubbles.
You could also spritz some isopropyl alcohol onto the bubbles as well. The torch works the best in my opinion. But they all have their place. I went through a period where I would get an allergic reaction from the fumes created once the heat was applied. During that time, I used the isopropyl alcohol spritz to rid the pieces of bubbles. If you go this route you don’t want to do that once it starts curing, the alcohol can change the dynamics of the piece. Which in some cases can create some really nice effects. But when you aren’t going for that, it can be disheartening.
Continue to frequently monitor the resin layer for the next few hours. You want to avoid having particles such as dust or hair in your piece (or flies). Use your high tech toothpick to remove anything that may have found it’s way on to your piece.
At the 12 hour mark you can remove the tape. But the resin is not fully cured at this point so don’t touch it or lay it upside down to remove the tape. But if you remove the tape now it’s much easier than trying to remove it once the resin has fully cured.
In this tutorial I explained how to add a flood coat to your resin project! Once the resin is cured you will love that beautiful glass like finish. If you have any questions or comments about this post or another question about resin please leave them below.
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Don’t forget about the cat! Be sure the room you are working in is closed off to any animals that may get into the resin. Such as a cat. I can’t begin to imagine how that could end up.